Navigli

The Navigli were a system of navigable canals that ran through Milan and connected it with Lake Maggiore, Lake Como and the lower Ticino. Initially, the Navigli served a purely logistical purpose, used for transporting goods to and from Milan. The materials used to build the Duomo were even transported via the Navigli.

Today, the term Navigli refers to the neighbourhood that hosts the Darsena and two of Milan’s principal canals, the Naviglio Grande and the Naviglio Pavese. This area is now considered one of Milan’s most vibrant, trendy and dynamic districts. Here you’ll find numerous bars and venues where you can enjoy a proper Milanese aperitif or have a drink after dinner, sometimes well into the night.

It took nearly seven centuries to complete Milan’s canal system, with experts working on it from the 12th to the 19th century. Over time, the Navigli became not just essential waterways but also an invaluable water resource for the surrounding countryside, allowing farmers to cultivate their crops. At their height, the Navigli consisted of nine waterways and four artificial basins. Today, only six canals and one basin remain – the Darsena di Porta Ticinese.

History of the Navigli

Milan’s canal network was initially conceived as a defensive moat for the city’s medieval walls, but over time, canalization and expansion works were undertaken, particularly under the Visconti and Sforza rule. This ring of water encircling the medieval historic centre through a system of moats became known as the “Cerchio dei Navigli” (Canal Circle). The Naviglio Grande was built in the 12th century, while around 1457 a second canal, the Martesana, was created, running from Trezzo d’Adda into the city.

It was through this canal system that materials for building the Duomo were transported to Milan. In particular, vessels used for the Duomo’s construction site bore the inscription Auf (from the Latin “Ad usum fabricae”, meaning “for use of the works”), which granted them exemption from tolls. Leonardo da Vinci was also commissioned by Ludovico il Moro not only to improve the entire navigation system but also to design a system of dams and locks to regulate the canals’ water flow. Towards the end of the 14th century, Leonardo was also tasked with studying a project that would connect the city to Lake Lario, bypassing the Adda rapids, though this never came to fruition. Sketches from his studies are still preserved at the Navigli Museum.

In the early 17th century, Spanish governor Pedro Enríquez de Acevedo, Count of Fuentes, decided to build a proper port near Porta Ticinese, the Darsena, where vessels could be moored. Later, with Napoleon Bonaparte’s rise to power in 1805, the Naviglio Pavese was also completed, answering the city’s need to be connected to the sea. However, the development of the railway network diminished the canals’ purpose, and the Cerchio dei Navigli was completely filled in between 1929 and 1930. Today, only the Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese remain connected to the Darsena di Porta Ticinese.

The Darsena

The Navigli neighbourhood is located in Milan’s south-west area and has its heart in the Darsena, the ancient city port from which the Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese still depart. Over time, this has become one of the city’s most picturesque areas, filled not only with bars and restaurants but also small bookshops, artisan boutiques and fashion stores.

The neighbourhood hosts cultural events and markets that enliven its charming alleys, making it a truly dynamic district. A must-visit is the Vicolo dei Lavandai, the street that once housed many laundresses and where you can still see the structure used for washing clothes (for a fee) in the canal.

Walking through the neighbourhood’s streets and crossing the various bridges, you’ll reach the Milan Darsena, a site redeveloped in 2015 for Expo. Now it’s a place where history and modernity combine. Not only are there numerous venues for great evenings out, but you can also board one of the small boats to admire Milan from a different perspective. Thanks to its charm, the Navigli neighbourhood has captivated several figures from the Italian arts scene, including poet Alda Merini, who lived here for many years.

Getting to the Navigli Neighbourhood

The best way to reach the Navigli neighbourhood is definitely by public transport.

By Metro, take the MM2 line, stopping at Porta Genova or Sant’Agostino

If you prefer to travel by bus, you can take lines 2, 3, 9, 47, or 74.

Recommended hotels in Navigli